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On the Road with Fast Eddie
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On the Road with Fast Eddie |
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| I recently took some time to visit Austria, Slovakia and Slovenia, seeing parts of each.
In this report I will focus on the latter two countries. Both are, of course, part of what we regard as Eastern
Europe, but they are quite different from each other, yet both worthwhile destinations. I have now visited five
countries from the former East, and I will make some comparisons, occasionally referring to OEECIHV, which is "Other
Eastern European Countries I Have Visited". As usual all prices quoted are in U.S dollars (as that is a good
reference point for all those reading this), and all room costs include breakfast. I started with Slovakia by leaving for Bratislava from Vienna via train. As soon as I stepped into my car, I met a young man, about 25, named Daniel who was sitting across from me. He was quite friendly, and told me he was currently working in Bonn, Germany as an IT specialist, who was returning home for a week of leisure and partying, spending time with friends, family and girlfriend. Our journey of 53km (about 35 miles) inexplicably took one-and-a-half hours, partly due to a remarkably inefficient border control leaving Austria, which also involved changing trains. By the time we reached Bratislava, he informed me that since his brother was picking him up by car, they would give me a lift to wherever I was staying. I had selected a likely looking accomodation from my guide book, so after dropping his brother's girlfriend off at work and giving me a tour along the way, we stopped at Penzion Rybarsky Cech, only to find that it was closed... I mean really closed! Pondering our next move, Daniel suggested we discuss it over lunch where we could call some places and see what was available. So off we sped... to his home where I was warmly greeted by his mother and we all sat down to an authentic home-cooked Slovakian meal... yummy! And as I chowed down, I thought, "If the rest of the Slovaks are anything like the ones I have met so far... this country wins my award as friendliest and most generous on the planet!". After lunch and a beer and some phone calls I discovered that Lonely Planet is on right on the money when it claims that, "There is a serious lack of cheap accomodation in Bratislava!" Earlier we had noticed a place on a boat which had space, so we headed back there where I checked into the Fairway Botel for two nights. My room cost me about $37, but I had a beautiful view across the river onto a wooded area... and... I had my own room and bath, which was very much welcomed after a few nights in hostels in Austria where I was subjected to a bevy of snoring, farting sleepers stumbling in and out of the dorm rooms at all hours. So I reveled in my privacy and thought, "How cool is this? I am sleeping on the Danube!", as I recalled the melodies of Strauss I had heard in Vienna. For me, the castles, palaces, churches, museums, architecture, landscapes and sunsets, etc are all worthwhile and memorable, but it is the people by far that make my journeys so incredibly special. That night I met up with Daniel, his girlfriend Nora, and several of their friends at a local watering hole, whereby I enjoyed still more Slovakian hospitality (they refused to let me pay), as well as an opportunity to talk with them about politics, economics, religion, relationships... all the complex mysteries of life! You may know that Slovakia is Europe's youngest country, emerging in 1993 after being part of Czechoslovakia for 74 years. And, like so many other Eastern European countries, it is struggling to redefine itself politically and economically after the ravages of a system that only enriched the beaurocrats. As in many OEECIHV, there is quite a bit of cynicism on the part of quite a few young people regarding their future there. First of all, many fear (with good reason) that the citizens will end up putting back into office the same kind of beaurocrats they once endured under communism, even though they know that these scoundrels have continually lied to them in the past and probably will lie to them in the future. First of all, even though they suffered loss of freedoms and had no real prosperity, there was at least an element of stability and equality in the past they do not experience now. When facing the unknown, people tend to gravitate towards something in the past that is familiar and secure. For instance, during elections in Berlin in late October, the former communists (PDS) recently dominated every district in the former Eastern part, largely, analysts say, because they know how to speak the language of the people. Because of this, and because of low wages/salaries, young professionals often look for work outside of Slovakia, Poland, Hungary, etc. They see poor prospects for a career at home. Can someone explain to me why most Tourist Information offices close early on Saturday and completely on Sunday? Yes I know that most people don't want to work on weekends, but this is not a bookstore we are talking about. When do tourists look at their watch on Saturday at noon and say, "Honey... let's go home until Monday morning."? Isn't that the point of opening the offices in the first place... to help tourists? You won't wake up in Bratislava and say, "Is this Prague?" It does not have that kind of stunning beauty. After all, Slovakia has always been the "poor sister" in the Czech region for decades, plus the Soviet-style government imposed a destructive economy, while contributing nothing other than hideous Stalinist architecture and environmental destruction. But I liked it, and you won't find the hordes of visiters that Prague gets either. The compact Stare mesto (old town) has a maze of lovely streets, Baroque-style facades, underground cafes and bars (nice jazz club at Ventuvsla 5 called Jazz Cafe). There are several museums and galleries. The Roland Cafe is a nice place to stop for coffee drinks and sinfully delicious pastries. One of my days there, I opted to head outside the city center and explore.... to delve into the contrast you so often find in Eastern European cities if you walk off "the tourist map". My goal was to find places in Bratislava no-one would go to unless they had to. First I discovered the local mall, where I stocked up on toothpaste and bought some snacks for the next day's train trip, wandering through, gathering stares in my safari pants and Indiana Jones hat. Then through neighborhoods where I walked by austere apartment complexes, small shops and eateries and spotted, but did not enter, the KGB Restaurant! Honest! As I meandered (that's slightly faster than ambling but slower than sauntering!) around I found one of those hidden jewels, a church called Modry Kostel on Bezrucova Ulice. It is not listed in the LP guide, does not show up on the tourist man, and is absolutely exquisite, with its ornate design and blue and white exterior. I peered through a wrought-iron gate at an elaborate interior, and while I did a young woman approached and knelt down next to me on the stone steps to pray. Feeling a bit of an imposition, I turned and crossed the street to view a grotesque concrete box of a building, decorated only with two sets of statues straddling the doorway. Each set displayed workers, hammers in hand, embracing each other in a gesture of socialist solidarity. Fittingly, the building's facade was laced with massive cracks! Next to the church was another building in a state of disrepair, apparantly abandoned as its windows and walls where dotted with holes. The walls surrounding this building where topped by coils of nasty looking barbed wire... no threat now as I stepped through a gate left slightly ajar. Looking up, I spotted gargoyles on the edge of the roof glaring back down at me. Behind me was a tennis court that has long since experienced a serve and volley. I found out later from Daniel that it once had been a grammar school. Now it is but a gloomy and silent reminder of a city and economy that sorely needs some revitalizing. Within, and towering over Bratislava, is Hrad, its centuries-old castle which you should visit for two reasons. The first is the stellar view, especially across the Danube where, among other things you will see Petrzalka, the array of huge housing estates that were thrown up in typical Soviet disregard for quality or beauty. This is where Daniel's mother lives, and when we went there he commented, "Welcome to the Bronx!", and then advised me not to leave my pack in the car while we were inside... this in broad daylight! The second reason is the National History Museum, which is very impressive. I also recommend you go to Devin Castle, a fortress at the confuence of the Moravia and Danube rivers 9km west of Bratislava, and near the Austrian border. I took bus #29, and was then directed to get off by a local I was talking to, and found myself by a road suspiciously lacking in signs to anywhere! But trusting his confident directions I walked onward through the drizzling rain, hoping I wasn't just taking a nice walk along the Danube to nowhere special. It was remote enough that I could just stop and pee alongside the road... which I did. Eventually I arrived at the castle, where I noticed the bus parked nearby the entrance at the other end of the virtually empty parking lot. Oh well... nice walk! Due to its key strategic location for trading and defence, the area Devin Castle rests on has a 6000 year history, going back to the Stone Age. The various stages of development up to and including the construction of the castle are all extremely well documented (even in English). Thanks to Napolean who bombed the place in 1809, much is in ruins now, but go and check it out. Admittance and a guide in English will set you back about $1.50. Obviously there is much more than Bratislava to see in Slovakia... apparently the Tatras Mountains near the border with Poland are magnificent, and there is more, of course, but I was soon off to Slovenia, which required a train ride across eastern Austria (very nice), with a few train changes along the way. Changing in Villach, Austria I headed south into Slovenia and chatted with a Pakistani businessman named Mushtaq who has been living in Dubai, U.A.E. for 24 years, and who filled me in on life there.. When we arrived in Jesenice, we needed to change trains again, and go through immigration. As I handed the agent my passport, he barely glanced at it, and turned his attention to Mushtaq, and along with another agent, subjected him to a barrage of questioning, and everything short of a strip search before letting him continue. We almost missed our connection. He shrugged his shoulders at the blatant difference in how we were treated, "They are just doing their job." I was planning to go to Ljubljana, and was very keen to get there since this is the place where U.S. President Bush claims to have actually looked into the soul of Russian President Putin. I thought that if a guy like that could have such magical powers bestowed on him there, I might have a shot at instantaneous enlightenment! But I had heard great things about a small city called Bled, and after finding out from the conductor that we were passing by there, I quickly jumped off in Lesce, where I was told I was only a hop, skip and a jump... or maybe it was a short bus ride... from Bled. Upon my departute... in darkness, I discovered that Lesce is a tiny place, and wondering where to find an ATM and a bus, I queried a boy about 16. "The bus stops across the street sir, but I don't think you'll find an ATM around... sir." Seeing my dilemma, he then opened his wallet and offered me all the Slovenian currency in it, "This will be enough for a ticket." When I tried to give him Deutschmarks or Schillings in exchange he refused to take them, and then said, "If you want to wait a few minutes, I am expecting my mom to pick me up, and we'll give you a ride to Bled since we live there!" Unbelievable! But then why should I be surprised? After the 5km lift, I arrived in Bled, got some Tolars from an ATM and grabbed the first hotel I saw (Hotel Jadran)... it was getting late and I was tired! Again I coughed up about $37, but when I stepped out on the balcony in the morning and checked out the view my jaw dropped and my knees buckled! Alpine hills, a blue-green opaque lake (smaller version of Tahoe), medieval castle perched at the top of a cliff across the lake, a 17th-century church on a tiny island, kayaks leaving tiny wakes crisscrossing the still waters (no power boats allowed), ducks and swans, picture-perfect chateaus here and there along the shoreline, snow-capped mountains thrusting up into the blue sky... what a pity it would have been if I had passed by this paradise. I have been to many beautiful places, including the Himalayas, the Canadian Rockies and Alaska, but had never seen anything any more beautiful than this! Ringing the lake is a 6km path. Walk it. Go to the castle... it's nice enough, and the museum is decent, but the view up there is spellbinding. There are gondola rides to the island with the church, but when I wanted to go I was the only one who did, so I ended up just talking with the boatman for awhile. He had arms like Popeye... and now that I think about it, a face like him too. Based on a recommendation from a local barmaid, I also took a bus to Lake Bohinj for a day trip (35 minutes - $2.50 – one way). The ride is very nice as it passes quaint little villages and farm houses, and the lake is pristine, peaceful and also magnificent. I enjoyed my solitude there, watching two-foot long trout swimming by by the hundreds, and more ducks and swans gliding by. Rather than wait for the next bus back, I opted to hitch back to Bled, and although it took some time to get my rides (apparantly hitching is not done much here), I did get two rides; a local surfer-dude-type who had just been rafting the river (brrrrrr!), and an Hungarian couple honeymooning. By the way, I did see an excellent HI hostel in Bled... $14, but I have no regrets for paying what I did. Had a nice hot bath there too... quite a luxury for me! Northwestern Slovenia has the Julian Alps, maybe not as high as the Austrian and Swiss counterparts, but no less beautiful. With Mt. Triglav (2864m) drifting into the background, my train traveled onward through the sensational scenery and then on to Ljubljana. This city, in fact this country, is a blend of both the West and the East of Europe, and is by far the most prosperous of the former Yugoslavia states. It has the infrastructure, cleanliness, and efficiency of Western Europe, but also the charm and allure of Eastern countries. Cost-wise, it is in between, though far less expensive than London, Sweden or Switzerland, for instance. Compared to OEECIHV, the people are more laid-back and optimistic... in general, in a better mood (especially the waiters!). English is widely spoken. In fact Slovenia TV has CNN, Discovery, American movies, etc., all in English with subtitles. I went to an extremely modern cinema and saw a forgettable American movie... in English, though. Ljubljana ís a fairly small (250,000), compact city... you won't need to use public transportation. There are nice squares, bridges and Romanesque architecture, with a strong Viennese influence. Architect Joze Plecnik is to Ljubljana, what Gaudi is to Barcelona. I recommend Stolnice (cathedral)...check out the doors on the front and side. There is a significant influence of the arts and a proud history of its people's struggle for autonomy, and you will see evidence of this in the statues and other memorials. The Academia Philharmonicorum dates back to 1701, and among its honorable members are Hayden, Beethoven, Brahams, Paganini and Mahler. Not too shabby! Walk to and in Tivoli Park. The 12th century Grad (castle) is worth a visit, for three reasons; 1) yet another great view, 2) the Virtual Museum has a 20 minute film in "stereoscopy" (a kind of 3D), which tracks two millenium of history as you experience a walk through the city, 3) you can probably use the walk up the hill! One place you must check out is Pr' skelet, an underground grotto/bar/coffee shop which has just about the most bizarre decor you can imagine. It was quiet when I stopped in in the afternoon, so I spent some time talking with the manager Sebastian, and he recommended the restaurant upstairs for some authentic Slovenian cuisine. I was game, so I came back later to Gebora Podjedina z Mesom and found to my shock and amusement that they specialized in horsemeat! Well, eating Bambi and Thumper are one thing... but Trigger! I don't normally eat veal, but when the chef (who has his own TV cooking show) said he could dig up some for a dish, I went for it. Sorry, no Trigger for me, authentic or not! The cesnova juha (garlic soup) was awesome! Stop at Tourist Info near the main square and Plecnik's Triple Bridge for a free guide called "Walk It", which has a self-guided walking tour in it. Then stop at the nearby Zlata Ribica for some sumptuous bean soup (less than $3). I stayed in Ljublana at the Hotel Park... good location, easy walking distance from both the train station and old town... rates comparable to what I paid in Bratislava and Bled for a private room with bath and breakfast.... good choice for me. If you haven't noticed yet, I really liked Slovenia... it rocks! Next comes Austria... Salzburg, Vienna, Innsbruck and some scenic wonders from the train! Until then... |
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