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On the Road with Fast Eddie
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On the Road with Fast Eddie |
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| August 20, 2001 Dobry Den: That would be "hello"...in Czech. I'll be sharing about my recent travels in the Czech Republic (CR), but first let me update you a little, since it's been awhile since I last wrote. It's been a busy summer for me in Deutschland, as I've been enjoying all that the season offers. When the weather warms, everything comes alive here. It seems as though there s a festival going on in the Stuttgart area (and presumably all over Germany) every weekend and the people flock to them with enthusiasm for the music, arts, crafts and of course beer... plenty of delicious German beer... huge mugs to slurp in the midst of good times. And it's in the summer that the beer gardens thrive everywhere, often with live music, and to miss them is to bypass an essential part of the culture here. I surely have not bypassed them! I mentioned in by last OTR that I would write more soon about Germany. I will, but that'll come later, especially since I'll soon be visiting both Hamburg and Köln - two great cities I'm told. I'm continuing to enjoy both my teaching work and living in Esslingen. I've now exceeded 18 months in Europe and am soon nearing my one-year anniversary in Germany. I've settled into an ease of living here...made many friends...done some traveling (natch!) and have picked up just enough Deutsch to be dangerous - or at least humorous to my German speaking friends. I can shop in stores, eat in restaurants, buy bus and train tickets, etc. I've even given directions to wayward travelers in the bahnhof. But don't be misled as my German is pathetic, almost nonexistent! But since I do not need it for my work and can manage to get around fine without it or with what little I know (most of the time), my motivation to improve is minimal, especially after spending all day teaching language! And let's face it, German is not one of the easier languages to learn. For better or worse those are the facts (or at least my excuse) and I'm not sure if it'll get much better while I'm still living here. Meanwhile, back to the CR. First of all, let me start by saying that this country blew me away! I was only there for ten days, and only in two cities, but I was very impressed. In addition, it's such an excellent value when compared with Western Europe. I took an overnight train to Prague and was immediately bowled over, just as I had been by both Paris and Venice. It has that kind of stunning beauty and charm. Krakow, Budapest and Prague are considered by many to be the "three jewels" of Eastern Europe and I can now claim my "Eastern Euro hat trick", though I know there's so much more to see in "the East". Just walking the streets and sitting in sidewalk cafes in Prague is a delight, a feast for the eyes. It's like Paris and Venice that way. Even the onslaught of tourists cannot spoil this city as I never had to wait for a table in a restaurant or wait in line anywhere, and the visual impact is overwhelming. The city center is literally a museum of 900 years of history: Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Art Nouveau - all blended together in architectural splendor. The main focal point is Stare Mesto (the Old Town) and nearby Vaclavske namesti (Wencelas Square), although one can walk far and wide and still marvel at the sights. Staromestske namesti (Old Town Square) has been the heart of the Old Town since 965, and it's a great place to sit and have what's probably the most expensive coffee one can buy in Eastern Europe, so savor it! But the view is worth it. No less than eight towers surround the square and the magnificent facades, church spires, statues, etc. are wonderful to take in. I suggest taking the elevator to the top of the central tower for a memorable view, for less than $1. On one edge of Stare Mesto is Josefov, the historic Jewish neighborhood with it's profound documentation spanning 1000 years of worship, art and culture, as well as their immense suffering and perseverance to tradition. The 700-year-old Staronova synagoga (Old-New Synagogue) is Europe's oldest operating synagogue, and close by is Stary zidovsky hrbitov (Old Jewish Cemetary) which contains 20,000 graves laid twelve layers deep. I was especially impressed by the Pinkas and Spanish synagogues, the latter being remarkable. Spanning the Vltava River is the Charles Bridge, one of Europe's most famous and spectacular bridges. You will probably cross it on your way to Prazsky Hrad (Prague Castle), which looms majestically over the valley. Founded 1000 years ago, it's always been the seat of Bohemian government and is worth visiting for its gardens, courtyards, galleries, palaces, and St. Vitus's Cathedral. By the way, if you saw the recent Mission Impossible movie then you saw a lot of the Charles Bridge. My favorite part of Prague is Wenceslas Square (actually a boulevard), largely due to its historical significance. It was here that Czech ruler and saint Vaclav (Wenceslas) has witnessed no fewer than five revolutions since 1912 when his statue was erected. Familiar to most people is when a young student named Jan Palach set himself on fire in 1969 to protest the Soviet invasion of the previous year. Another student gave his life in the same manner soon after and flowers at the site are a constant reminder of their ultimate sacrifice for freedom. Standing there, I recalled that time in history and how as a young protester against the Vietnam War and racial discrimination in the U.S., I, like so many other young Americans, identified with and were inspired by these acts of bravery in the face of brutality and oppression. And twenty years later, tens of thousands once again poured into the square, catapulting the CR into freedom and the questionable merits of capitalism. We know that time now as the Velvet Revolution. Just walking through the square was a moving experience for me... each time! While in Prague, I stayed at the Clown and Bard Hostel, which was very agreeable to me. From there, you can take a four-hour historical tour with a young ex-pat Brit named Paul for under $8, and since it offers such an excellent historical perspective I strongly suggest it. I looked for and found some excellent jazz while in Prague... at the Reduta Jazz Club, which is at Narodni trida 20. It was here that the famous (infamous?) "presidential jam session" took place several years ago. It seems that Bill Clinton took a cigar out of his mouth long enough to put a saxophone in it, and he joined Czech president Vaclav Havel (apparantly also a mediocre saxophonist) for "an historical musical event". When I was there I was treated to a superb band from Bratislava headed up by Peter Lipa, an old-time jazz singer who I enjoyed chatting with on his break. Isolated most of his life by politics (Iron Curtain), he wanted to hear about my past opportunities to see and hear the likes of Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, Thelonious Monk, Cannonball Adderley, Dexter Gordon, Oscar Peterson, etc. After four days and nights in Prague, I bought a bus ticket for about $3.75 and took the three-hour ride south to Cesky Krumlov, near the Austrian border. Now I know that I'm a bit guilty of raving on and on about almost every place I go... after all there are lots of cool places to visit. But, I must say that Cesky Krumlov might just be the coolest place yet! For me, and I know for many others, it has a magic that is so seductive. It seems that a lot of people go there "for a day or two" and end up staying and staying and staying... some forever. For instance, there's Ernesto, a young Mexican lawyer who quite his job in a law firm because his boss was such a prick that he wouldn't give Ernesto a week off to attend a wedding in Europe. While traveling around Europe he stopped here... a year ago! He works in the hostel and smiles all the time. Or there's "Dobry den Dan". His first name is Dan, but when I said hello to him in Czech, Dobry den Dan was so much fun to say I called him that all the time. He's an American who'd been there six weeks so far when I was. He's learning Czech... has gotten himself a girlfriend... and says he'll never move back to the States. I get it. Straddling the Vltava, Cesky Krumlov is on UNESCO's World Heritage List, has the CR's second largest castle looming over it, is filled with winding medieval streets, and is an ideal area to canoe, kayak, hike or go horseback riding in... which I did one afternoon in the nearby hills. One can really see all "the sights" in a day, but it's the laid-back ambiance and the riveting beauty of this town that steals people's hearts away. I stayed five days and left so relaxed I could have floated back to Esslingen, I thought. I do recommend the photo gallery just off Namesti Svornosti (main square), which covers the work of three prominent Czech photographers and which displays some very compelling photos of the people of this land. For great food, try Krcma v Satlavske on Horni ulice 157. Czech food, like much Eastern Euro food, is heavy on pork and cabbage...vegetarians beware. But the goulash is epic! For accommodation, I highly recommend Hostel Skippy (skippinku@hotmail.com), a short walk outside town with a terrace overlooking the river (and canoeists overturning in the rapids), and as friendly a feeling as one could find away from home. Skippy is an improbable Czech-Cuban mix who's always smiling and is often strumming her guitar and singing. Her friends often drop by. The cost for a bed in dorm room is less than $6/night. The restaurants and bars in Cesky Krumlov have a grotto feeling to them (tall people.. watch your head... ouch!). One night I went to a place nearby Skippy's that resembled a poorly built bomb shelter, and a friend and I enjoyed listening to about 20 Czech students singing folk songs. They seemed to enjoy it when Thomas borrowed the guitar and belted out a rousing rendition of "La Bamba/Twist and Shout". On a different occasion, another friend and I visited a bar where two couples struck up a conversation with us and then implored us to share a drink of absinthe (sp?). First, one must set the drink on fire before you drink it. Yes, you wait for it to burn out before drinking it, but apparently this drink is so deadly (70% alcohol) that it's outlawed in most civilized countries! I had only one... I know my limits. One can get a good meal for $2-4 and a beer (which is delicious... unlike Polish beer) for as low as $.50. When I think about the cost of Venice, London, Stockholm, and Paris, for instance, and compare... this is a traveler's paradise. I must talk a little about the people of the CR. For the most part, the average person is friendly enough, if a bit reserved. But I must prepare you for your first visit to a restaurant or store. Maybe it's because the Czech are apparently a proud people (I'm told), but the best thing I can say about waiters/waitresses in the CR is to refer to them as "indifferent". I thought that German food servers could be a little brusque, but compared to what I experienced in the CR, they'd win international awards for "Customer Service". I had one waiter who could certainly be a finalist for "Surliest Waiter in the CR". Every question asked him, from every table, prompted a roll-of-the-eyes, shake-of-the-head, and some mumbling that certainly was his best Czech obscenity. It actually became comical for me and others to observe his little tantrums. And he's only the exaggeration, not the exception. In Prague at Zmrzlinovy Listek in the Old Square, I ordered an ice cream sundae from the picture in the menu. Instead of three scoops of three different flavors, nuts, whipped cream and syrup, I got one scoop with a tiny dollop of whip cream... for the same price! When I gently and diplomatically queried the waiter about the difference, his curt response while turning away was, "That's just a picture!" But as I've implied already, indifferent customer service notwithstanding, the CR is highly recommended. For my male and lesbian friends, you'll find the women astonishing: high cheek bones, short skirts and very friendly (I'm told). Apparently Prague is a haven for pick pockets (watch on buses and in train station), though. I had no problem, but I never have had any anywhere so far as I'm quite vigilant regarding these matters and I look neither rich nor "an easy mark", due to my size. ATMs are everywhere for accessing cash. Public transport is a dream - clean and user-friendly. But you'll want to walk a lot there too, meandering through the network of lanes, passages and cul-de-sacs. Just be prepared for some brutal hills. Prior to my trip, a veteran Euro traveler friend (Unca Cosmo) advised me to skip the museums and focus instead on being outside. Good advice, but bring good walking shoes and buy some bottled water. I will return. I still want to visit the small towns my maternal grandparents left in 1888 to emigrate to the U.S. These are southwest of Prague near the German border and maybe I'll find some long-lost cousins there? Today I bought my train tickets for a two week trip soon to Berlin (again!), Hamburg, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, and Köln (Cologne). I'm planning at the end of October to spend nine days exploring Salzburg, Vienna, and Bratislava, and I'am also intending separate weekend visits to both Strasburg, France and Lucerne, Switzerland before December 1. (Anyone have travel tips for me?) There's much to see and do...this life suits me well, I think! |
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So long,
