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January 30, 2001
When I last left you in Turkey I was boarding an overnight bus from Selcuk to Istanbul.
Traveling by bus is a great way to get around Turkey, but I found that it's wise to employ the "20% rule",
which means that it's a good idea to add 20% to the promised travel time. This was a consistently dependable calculation
and after twelve hours, not the quoted ten, I arrived mid-morning in Istanbul - very happy to be there!
Straddling two continents and centuries of history, Istanbul has plenty to occupy and fascinate you. Because of
its strategic location on the Bosphorus Straits, it's a city that has been frequently invaded and has undergone
transitions through numerous wars and subsequent influences. The ancient and modern merge, with a myriad of cultures
evident everywhere.
The debates rage as to whether Turkey belongs more to Asia or to Europe. Personally, it felt more Middle Eastern
to me than anything else, which may be largely due to the fact that it's 99% Muslim. But it is the most liberal
Islamic country in the world - in fact, church and state have been strictly separated since the republic was formed
in 1923 under the leadership of Kemal Attaturk, who for the Turks is George Washington, Abe Lincoln and Superman
all rolled up into one. Statues and pictures of him are everywhere and he is highly revered.
Religious fanaticism is not the norm here. It's common to see women wearing headscarves, but veils are outlawed
and it's even more common to see women dressed just as you might in London or Chicago. Smoking and drinking alcohol
are very much a part of life. In fact, according to Let's Go travel guide, prostitution is legal there!
Also, the magazine racks have several of those "tits and bums" publications in full view. I expect to
see those in Germany and France, but not in an Islamic country.
Five times a day you'll hear the wailful call by the muezzins from the top of the minarets, calling the faithful
to prayer. I found this sound to be hauntingly beautiful, though at 6 am it can be a less than welcome "wakeup
call". Be mindful when selecting a place to stay of its proximity to a mosque!
As in so much of the country, mosques dominate the skyline and there're several that are worth visiting. The most
famous is the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), multi-domed and elegantly designed with its six minarets
soaring magnificently upward. Completed in 1617, it's a stunning example of Islamic architecture.
I also enjoyed Suleymaniye Camii, which was designed by Sinan, the most revered of all the Ottoman
architects. He's also responsible for Selimiye Camii in Edirne which is considered the finest mosque in
all of Turkey.
But what is even more impressive is Aya Sophia which was converted into a museum by Attaturk in 1932. Originally
built in 532 as a Byzantine church and considered the finest building in all the Byzantine World for a millennium,
it was converted to a mosque in 1453. Christian mosaics still abound in this immense structure and the gold-leafed
dome had me staring open-mouthed, I'm quite sure.
Also nearby is Topkapi Palace, which was the nerve center of the Ottoman Empire from the 15th to the 19th centuries.
There're numerous buildings and museums here to see and at least half a day there is recommended. I could spend
a lot of time describing it, but I'll let you read the guidebook, which will no doubt do it far greater justice.
While in Istanbul I stayed in the Interyouth (aka Yucelt) Hostel in Sultanahmet, the tourism capital of this city
of 15,000,000. But don't let that scare you - this is the area to stay in, as it is right off Divanyolu Caddesi
(the main drag) and I could walk to virtually everything I needed or wanted to see within minutes.
After traipsing around for a couple of days, I decided to take in a Turkish bath, known as a haman. It
was the best 10,000,000 lira ($15) I've spent in a long time and I suggest you do the same. After disrobing and
stashing your valuables in your private cubicle, you don a towel and enter a sizable room where in the middle is
the gobek tasi, a large, heated marble stone to lie down on and sweat. (By the way, men and women are separated.)
After some time relaxing there, a masseur (or masseuse) starts working their magic.
First, mine doused me with soapy water and firmly rubbed me down with keses, similar to loofah mitts, to
stimulate circulation and to remove dead skin. Then I was rinsed again and he thoroughly massaged me from "stem
to stern", first while lying on the stone, and then later while sitting (propped up) next to one of the basins
that line the outer wall. Three progressively cooler rinses with clear water completed the heavenly experience.
Ecstasy has a way of distorting one's sense of time, but I was in there at least an hour, I'm sure. You can experience
a haman for less than I paid, but Cemberlitas Hamami (8 Verzirhan Caddesi) was recommended to me by a local
and Sinan built it in 1584, so I thought I might as well go five star. I deserve it!
One of my other personal favorites was the Basilica Cistern, a vast underground cavern that I enjoyed so much I
went back for an encore. Shallow water reflects 336 supporting columns, illuminated by colored, ambient lighting
while classical music plays softly in the background. This and the sound of dripping water created an eerie, peaceful
atmosphere that put me into a meditative state that lasted for hours. Don't miss it!
The largest covered bazaar in the world is in Istanbul, the Kapali Carsisi, or Grand Bazaar. With over 4000
shops, a police station, mosque and lots of restaurants, it's a city within itself. But despite the fierce competition
created by loads of tourists, I suggest visiting it, but not buying there, unless you really know your product
and costs. I went to Hippodrome on Atmeydani where I found much better deals and was treated to the delightful
and shockingly honest personality of the owner Remzi. His eyes sparkle with a love of life and people and my time
with him was a delight as we discussed philosophy and life in general.
In contrast with my experience with Remzi, there're the ever-present "carpet pimps", as I call them.
These are the young men who accost you as you walk, insisting that you come and drink tea with them in their shops
(or the shops of whoever they are pimping for) and, of course, eventually become a proud owner of a Turkish carpet
- which are admittedly beautiful but not necessarily what you want. "Hey meester, where are you from... America?
Come... I sell you cheep!" They incessantly pursue you, not taking no for answer, often following you down
the street, badgering you regardless of how polite or impolite you are. These touts browbeating you can make just
walking to a restaurant a daunting task as you run the gauntlet of one to another to another, hassling you. It
can test your patience for sure, and I did, in fact, push one away one day after I told him I was not interested
three times... to no avail! To his credit, he apologized the next day when he saw me… so did I.
The biggest lie in Turkey, "I don't want to sell you anything, I just want to talk with you."
Sharing that creates the backdrop for one of those bizarre occurrences that defy either logic or "the odds".
Walking home late one afternoon, within a block of my hostel, I spotted one of the hustlers who'd been among the
more persistent and obnoxious I had had the displeasure of encountering. But oddly enough, as I approached him,
rather than the usual sales pitch about carpets he merely stood there and with a boyish smile just said, "Hi."
I would not have been more shocked if he'd dropped his pants and mooned me! I was so disarmed by this behavior
that I immediately veered off course, walked up to him, and relied, "Hi... how are you?"
For the next ten minutes or so I enjoyed a wonderful conversation with a charming young man named Adam. Not once
did the "C word" come up. And while chatting I suddenly heard a vaguely familiar voice inquire, "Eddie?"
and when I turned, who was standing there before me but Tom Topham who I'd last seen in Krakow, Poland when he
was one of my tutors during my CELTA training. He was on a 36-hour layover exploring Istanbul, while on his way
to Kyrgyzstan to open a language school in the capital of Bishkek. (Now there's an adventure!) It's hard to say
who was more surprised, Tom or I? But then again we weren't, if you catch my drift. Of course, it was only due
to an unlikely state of circumstances that I was still standing at this corner when he passed by. Go figure! Later,
Tom joined me with my friends for dinner and beers.
Concerning bazaars, I suggest you visit the Egyptian Bazaar, which is also in Sultanahmet and which is frequented
more by locals than by tourists. I especially enjoyed walking through the mounds of aromatic and brightly colored
spices and herbs. It was reminiscent of India and I bought some walnut stuffed dates that were to-die-for!
Some travel tips for Turkey:
- Because of an extremely high inflation rate, change money often if you plan to stay for a while.
- Make sure that you're clear on the price of everything before you order in a restaurant and watch for an added
service charge.
- Carry TP and something like a bandana to dry your hands off with.
- Use buses, not trains, but make sure your ticket actually takes you all the way to your intended destination.
- Men…do not sit next to a woman unless invited to do so.
- Women...dress modestly and do not sit in the front of a cab alone as you might give the driver the wrong impression.
Also, bring a scarf to wear in the mosques.
- As always, learn a few phrases in Turkey... they really appreciate it, though English is widely spoken.
There were several restaurants I can recommend: Doy Doy, Divan, Cennet (have a gozleme there and
enjoy the Arabesque music), and go to Cigdem Patisserie for amazing pastries and the best cappuccino I had
while in Turkey.
Smoking a nargile is a cultural experience not to miss, even if you don't normally smoke. They fill it with
a mild flavored tobacco and because it is a water pipe, it is so smooth you can barely tell that you're inhaling.
And the national drink is raki, licorice flavored and very strong... similar to ouzo. A little
goes a long way!
In two weeks, I could only scratch the proverbial surface of Turkey. I regret I didn't have time for Cappadoccia
in the more central part of the country, which some say is the most beautiful part. And there's certainly much
more that I missed - it's a huge country! But isn't that always the case anywhere you go? But I packed in as
much as I could without stretching myself too far, and I feel that I got a good feeling for this fascinating land.
I also made so many good friends while there and I'm sure those friendships and the fond memories will endure
for a long, long time.
Until our next visit...
Some Web sites with more information about Turkey and Istanbul:
http://www.exploreturkey.com/ --Very thorough
http://www.theguideistanbul.com/istanbul/index.htm
--Istanbul: the Guide
http://www.cimko.com.tr/istanbul.htm -- The Beloved City of
Five Nations
http://www.balsoy.com/Turkiye/inpictures/si/Istanbul.html
--Istanbul in pictures
http://www.cimko.com.tr/About/istlive.htm --live cams
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