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Last weekend I went to Budapest, Hungary.
As I have previously shared, it is my intention to experience as much of Europe as possible while living and
working here in Germany, and Budapest is one of many cities I'd heard so much about and wanted to see. My good
friend Tina (a fellow teacher here in Stuttgart), who I have already done some traveling with, suggested that we
could spend a weekend there via an overnight train with couchette (sleeper car). She had researched it, and for
DM290 (about $130) we would leave at 9:30 Friday night and arrive in Budapest Saturday morning at about 7:30, and
then return, leaving Sunday night at about 9:30 and getting back Monday morning at 9 AM...well rested and refreshed,
of course. This would give us two full days there, with only the cost of one night's accomodations.
It took her about 10 seconds to talk me into it.
So later that week we were off, and after a short stopover in Munich (just enough time to walk past about a zillion
strip clubs near the train station on our way to find a quick Bavarian beer), we piled into our couchette, and
fell asleep listening to the click-clack of the train as we sped through Austria and on towards Hungary.
(I can now add Austria to my list, which includes Belgium and the Netherlands, of countries that I have "been
in", but which don't "count", as I was sleeping while there. I guess Taiwan could be on that same
list, as I was only in the airport there.)
When we awoke in Budapest, we grabbed our packs and, after walking to and checking into our hostel (Yellow Submarine
on Terez Körut... recommended!), we were off to explore the "Queen of the Danube". Walking through
Budapest is a joy. It is truly a beautiful and fascinating city, with plenty to see and do. I really loved the
architecture; huge buildings that screamed out centuries of history, with statues and ornate carvings galore. Straddling
the Danube, which is one of Europe's most significant rivers, and dividing Buda from Pest, this city is both striking
and romantic.
We decided to head first for Castle Hill on the Buda side. Perched high above the river, this district is what's
left of medieval Budapest, and is filled with museums, galleries, statues, and palaces. To get there, we approached
one of eight bridges in the city: the Chain Bridge. We walked past the large stone lions that guard it, and after
crossing, took the funicular up the steep hill to where we were greeted by a spectacular view of the city. This
is an area not be missed. One could easily spend several days there.
When we decided it was time to eat, we picked out a restaurant called Aranyhordo Vendeglo on Tarnoku St, and had
our first taste of Hungarian cuisine. We were blown away! I had never thought I would love the food there as much
as I did, but we had one outstanding meal after another over the weekend. And, like so much else there, it is remarkably
inexpensive. I had absolutely the finest duck I have ever had, cooked in wine sauce, for about $4.00... served
by a guy in a tie, with the white towel hanging over his arm... the whole works! It was epic! Shortly afterwards,
we had coffee drinks in what looked like an old castle, nearby Matthias Church, a stunning, neo-Gothic structure
where Franz Liszt regularly composed and performed 150 years ago.
In the afternoon, we decided it was time to partake in one of Budapest's most famous and enjoyable offerings...the
thermal baths. Because the Danube follows a geological fault there, over 40,000,000 liters of hot mineral water
gush forth daily from more than 100 thermal springs, and there are several locations where you can find bathhouses,
many of which date back to the 1600 century when this was part of the Ottoman Empire. Consequently... Turkish baths!
Do not miss them!
We selected the Szechenyl Baths in the city park, where for 600 foriths (less than $2) we could wander through
our choice of nine pools; some inside, some outside. We opted to spend the bulk of our time in a large outdoor
pool, where we soaked for at least two hours, sometimes floating over to where jets of water massaged our feet
from beneath us, or to where cool, gentle sprays cascaded down onto our heads from above, creating the feeling
of being under a waterfall. At times, I would just lie on the steps in shallow water, watching the clouds drift
by overhead... savoring each golden moment of luxury. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!
After they closed at 5PM, we decided to head back to the hostel. Earlier, we had purchased a packet of 10 tickets
for the weekend, had taken a bus over to the baths, and now opted to jump on the metro for the return trip It was
here that we had what I refer to as a "learning experience". Take note that when you step on a bus in
Budapest, you must immediately stamp your ticket, but when riding the metro, you must stamp your ticket BEFORE
boarding. And where and how you stamp it may not at all be clear... especially if you do not speak Hungarian (which,
by-the-way, is one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn and speak!).
After stepping onto the train, we looked for where to stamp our tickets, and seeing our dilemma, a local lady (another
by-the-way... the Hungarians are among the sweetest and most helpful of any Europeans I have met) pointed out that
we needed to do that outside the train. The doors slammed behind us. Off the train went. We decided that we would
quickly jump off at the next station, stamp our tickets, and jump back on. As we neared the next station, a woman
with a uniform approached us to check our tickets, and as the door opened she stepped out with us... we thought
to help us accomplish our goal... naturally.
It didn't work out quite that way, and next week when I have more time I'll tell you all about "the Great
Escape". And some more about beautiful Budapest, too!
Until then...
 Love and peace... and cows
(the right kind of "mad" ones!)!
-------------Fast Eddie
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